A very common confusion that happens when the student is starting in draping or flat modeling, is regarding the ease and the seam allowance.
Both are additions that we need to put in the patterns, but they have different functions and both the seam allowance and the gaps depend on pattern maker to pattern maker and seamstress to seamstress or even depend on the model.
I'll conceptualize each one here for you:
Ease
The ease is defined as the space that exists between the body and the garment. This is related to the fit and comfort of the clothing. This comfort is related to the type of material that this piece will be made of and the form it will have, that is, the modeling. So there is no one size fits all gap, because a piece made of knitted fabric does not have the same need to add gaps as one made of plain fabric.
Another fact is the modeling and style of clothing, these issues are intertwined when we talk about wearability time off.
If you want to deepen your studies on this issue, I recommend reading the article that Professor Ligia Osório published in the Fashion Colloquium. There she addresses these topics and also provides a table that can be used as a basis for those who work with flat modeling.
And you who work with flat modeling and have difficulty putting the correct gaps, know that the wearability gap in the draping is interesting because we don't need to measure, because doing it directly on the dummy, we can add the fabric and visualize the result of comfort and aesthetics that we want And this makes the modeling process much simpler and easier, as you don't have to be held hostage by ready-made tables to calculate and add the wearability gap, as you can feel the need to put it on or take it off. Understood?
Seam Allowance
The seam allowance is considered to be the addition of measures necessary to carry out the seam. This spacing is what will be defined in different measures, and will also be influenced by the type of fabric, the modeling, the purpose of that piece and the finish.
For example, if the piece is finished with an overlock, there are people who sew to cut the fabric burr at that moment. So just to summarize, there are many factors involved.
The amount of measurements needed will always vary. If you do a French seam, it's one type of measurement, if you're doing a simple seam, another type.
I usually use a 1 cm seam allowance, but I have an idea of how much I discount that in sewing. There are patternmakers or seamstresses who use 0.5, 0.7 cm.
Do you realize that in both cases we cannot follow an exact formula? These measurements depend on a few factors and it is with practice that you will develop this ability to understand the amount needed for each piece.
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