When you start working with moulage, you should understand that there are two types of markings:
First, the mannequin marking, which is an essential step in the moulage technique and consists of marking the guide lines on the mannequin, such as waist, bust, hip, center-front and center-back lines, among others.
These lines help guide the designer or pattern maker when placing the fabric, ensuring that it is correctly positioned and that the garment fits the body faithfully. It is like a "map" that guides the moulage process.
The markings are made with a special thread, and here on the blog you will find an exclusive category on this subject. In it, I explain in detail the necessary materials and the types of essential markings. If you want to delve deeper into the subject, click here and explore the content. Also take the opportunity to download the free e-book, where I teach you step by step how to make all the complete markings.
The second approach, which is the focus of this post, is temporary markings — the lines we use to create a specific pattern. Temporary markings are essential when creating clothing patterns using the moulage technique, especially for details such as collars, armholes, and necklines.
They act as temporary guides, allowing the designer or pattern maker to visualize and adjust the design as the fabric is molded directly onto the mannequin. These temporary lines are essential for defining shapes and proportions before cutting or sewing the fabric, ensuring that all the details are in the correct place. For example, when creating a collar or an armhole, markings help to position the fabric precisely, adjusting the drape and volume as needed.
In addition, temporary markings offer flexibility to make adjustments during the creative process, allowing the designer to experiment with different shapes and styles until achieving the desired result. Thus, they are a crucial step in ensuring the quality and finish of garments produced using the moulage technique.
That’s why we used draping tape in this case, as it offers practicality and precision when defining these temporary lines directly on the mannequin. Draping tape adheres to the fabric without damaging it, allowing the pattern maker to trace the construction lines clearly and in an adjustable way. In addition, it adapts well to the curves of the mannequin, making it easier to mark more complex areas, such as armholes and collars.
This flexibility is crucial for visualizing the design in development and making quick adjustments before moving on to the final sewing phase. With draping tape, it is possible to move or reposition the lines as needed, ensuring that the pattern is perfect and the drape of the fabric is ideal before any final cutting.
However, draping tape should never be used to make basic markings on the mannequin. These markings, such as the waist, bust, hip, and center lines, are essential for the construction of any garment and need to be fixed and precise throughout the entire moulage process.
Draping tape, in addition to not being durable, can damage the mannequin over time. Since it is designed for temporary use, its adhesive can end up wearing out the mannequin's fabric, leaving residue or even pulling delicate fibers when removed. This can compromise the integrity of the mannequin, especially if the adhesive is left on for long periods or if it is used repeatedly in the same areas.
Therefore, it is essential to reserve the use of draping tape only for temporary and specific markings, avoiding applying it to permanent or long-lasting markings. Using the correct materials for each type of marking helps to preserve both the mannequin and the moulage process itself, ensuring greater precision and durability in the work.
WHAT IS THE BEST DRAPING TAPE AND WHERE CAN I BUY IT?
I have several and whenever I travel I take the opportunity to test a different material. I intend to write a post showing each of them, but until the post is released, I will recommend some stores and brands.
In Brazil, I recommend the fabric tape sold by Draft Manequins or you can buy masking tape, which are small paper ribbons and can be purchased on Amazon.
In Paris, you can find them in stores like Le Fil 2000 or Hamon Paris. In the United States, or rather in NY, you can find them in Garment District or Mood Fabrics.
There is a black and white tape model that is very common in English tutorials, which is this one from Shoben. I bought mine at Le Fil 2000 in Paris, but I only found it online on this William Gee website.
I hope you enjoyed the post, I will soon bring a review of the tapes I mentioned!
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